How to sew a jacket?
If you are interested in the theme of cutting and sewing, then in this article you will read about how to sew a jacket. And also learn the nuances of patterns and tailoring of female and male models of the jacket.
This article describes in detail how to sew a jacket of female and male cut. In addition, here are shown the steps of constructing the pattern and the processing of the details of the jacket.
Your jacket will be determined by four components - this is your vision of what the jacket should be and your preferences in choosing fabrics, their color, composition, density. As well as a cut that is chosen from three basic styles of cut — English, Italian, American — each of which is historically associated with its country, but modern tailors can successfully combine all three styles in one cut. And the fourth quality is the degree of fit to the body. Therefore, before you sew a jacket, you need to approve these qualities.
For sewing a jacket, you will need material for the top, lining fabric, two types of adhesive material, a small piece of padding polyester, shoulder pads, buttons, sewing threads.And, of course, a sewing machine. But overlock, on the contrary, is not needed, because slices will not be processed. For the jacket choose woolen lightly brushed fabric. Due to the presence of the nap, the cutting direction of the parts will be a significant factor. When deciding how to sew a jacket with your own hands, you need to choose in which direction the fabric has a more beautiful color and luster. And lay out the details of the pattern on the fabric in the same direction.
Before you sew a jacket, you need to prepare the fabric. Fabric before cutting need to be rolled, in order to avoid shrinkage of the finished product. It is better to decorate fabric for a jacket with the help of an iron so that the fabric does not fade. After that, you need to lay the fabric one layer face down on the ironing board, and iron the iron through the wet fabric with slow movements. If the material is synthetic or knitted, then jacket is not necessary. As lining fabric it is better to use 100% viscose. It also needs to be rolled. To do this, soak a piece of cloth in warm water for about half an hour - an hour, and then dry and iron.
If the lining is synthetic, then it can be not decame.
Men's jacket cut
How to sew a men's jacket is indistinguishable from how to sew a women's one. Sewing technology is similar, but with a few changes and additions.
- After cutting the fabric, snares are put and side strips are processed, darts are made in the gasket from above. Simultaneously with the laying of the costume fabric, a 28 cm long plate is cut with a transverse arrangement of the threads.
- The plate is located on the strip so that it covers the entire chest area. The edge of the plate should be 2 cm from the fold line of the lapel, 2 cm from the shoulder seam. 3-4 cm from the armhole line, and 6 cm from the side line of the gasket. on the chalk line.
- When stitching the darts, under the seam, strips of the calico are placed along a common thread with a length similar to the dart and 1.5 cm wide. Then they iron out - the main fabric is ironed in one direction, and the sewn strip in the other.
- The shelf with the stitched tucks unfolds on the block, the seams are moistened and unstuck until it fits completely. At the ends of the darts, at the end of the seam it is necessary to iron the bulge well.Shelves are usually processed separately.
- Next, a section of the shelf is processed, which is located at a distance from the lapel to the bottom, pulling it off above the level of the pocket. Shelves need to be separated, and lay each convex part of the chest on the plane of the pad. Next, they straighten and give the final shape of the bulge of the chest.
- The correctness of the position of the shelves is determined by the line of semi-skid. In that case, if the fold line is straight, then the ironing is done correctly. This is determined by the edge lines of the bead and the lapels, if there the edge cuts of the bead and the shelves are equal to each other.
- On the prepared side gasket superimposed shelves of the upper part face up. Half backs are folded so that the front side of the jacket is inside. They are straightened and swept away by snaps smoothly, with 1 cm stitches.
- The seam of the back is bent to one side so that the left side of the back is bent, and it is swept over the top of the back. After preparing the shelf with the finished side gasket, you can sweep all the details of the jacket.
Women's jacket cut
So now we are sewing a women's jacket.
- To do this, fold the main fabric with the front sides to each other with a fold along the lobe thread. First, fit the large parts, and after - small.
- Shallow seam allowances.The allowances for darts, reliefs, armholes, and sleeve gauges are 1.5 cm. Side, sleeve seams, shoulder, middle back seam - allowances 2.
- Pay attention, before you sew a jacket for women, you need to provide an average seam on the back. So how exactly on this seam fabric is taken and released for a good fit of the back. The neck, valves, bead, leaflet, collar - 1 cm allowance is made. The allowance for the hem of the jacket and sleeves should be made 3-4 cm.
- On the front side of the middle part of the shelves are transferred the inflection lines and the middle of the lapels. You can do this by drawing contrasting threads. The notches on the allowances transfer control points from the patterns.
- Before sweeping, you need to make a front half sleeve. To perform this operation, both parts need to be folded face down and put on the ironing board. Well moisten the details to a width of about 5-6 cm from the top edge. Holding the middle of the sleeve, which is between the arrows, with your left hand, apply pressure to the parts with a hot iron. You need to force them in the direction of the arrow. From this side you need to make a delay in the direction of the right arrow.
- After that, the parts are turned over to the opposite side, and the process is repeated, pulling the rest of the cut off of the part. The cut of a detail has changed the form - from a concave cut became more convex.
- You need to sweep the details of the jacket for fitting, performing bartacks at the beginning of the seams. Stitches need not be very long. To fix the landing you need to flash the second basting line on this section. Be sure to sweep the right sleeve and collar.
You can also sew a jacket to order. After all, whatever one may say, but to sew a suit to order is more solid than to buy in a boutique of a famous designer. It will be better to sit and it will suit you both in size and in style. And how much it costs to sew a jacket at times cheaper than many trendy things. The average cost of a costume will cost you between 20,000 and 40,000 rubles. Jacket can be ordered separately and complete.